History of Portsmouth Island
Life here is different nowadays. Missing are the herds of roaming livestock
that preserved the village's low, windswept appearance. Gone is the bustling
waterfront of Portsmouth's heyday: the boat captains, fishermen, U.S.
LIfe-Saving Station staff, and storekeepers. Established in 1753 by an
act of the North Carolina Assembly, Portsmouth grew to be the largest
settlement on the Outer Banks by 1770. For nearly a century, the town
remained a major shipping center. Ocracoke Inlet was the major trade route
through the Outer Banks to important North Carolina ports. However, large,
heavily laden ships found the inlet too shallow to sail through and were
forced to transfer their cargo to lighter, shallow draft boats. Portsmouth
was established to provide storage and support facilities for this business.
As the shipping industry grew, Portsmouth thrived. In 1842, over 1400
vessels and two thirds of North Carolina's exports passed through Ocracoke
Inlet. In 1860 the population of Portsmouth grew to 685 residents. The
coming of the Civil War signaled the end of an era for the village. Many
residents fled for the mainland as the Union Army marched down the Outer
Banks. A large portion did not return after the war. Their reasons were
economical as well as political. Even before the war began, Ocracoke Inlet
had begun to shoal, (shallow), and a new, deeper inlet was opened at Hatteras
by a ferocious storm in 1846. Shipping routes shifted north. In addition,
more and more goods began traveling on inland railroads.
A Fishing Hamlet
Portsmouth´s days as a center of commerce were over. Fishing replaced
shipping as the primary occupation for the islanders that remained. In
1894, the U.S. Life-Saving Service was established on Portsmouth and for
nearly 50 years played a vital role in the community. Steadily the population
declined. In 1956 only 17 residents remained. The walls of time closed
in on Portsmouth. Isolation, a depressed economy, and the constant threat
to life and property from storms prompted the final abandonment of Portsmouth
. With the death of Henry Pigott in 1971, Portsmouth´s last two
residents, Marion Babb and Elma Dixon, reluctantly moved to the mainland.
Another chapter in Portsmouth´s history had come to an end.
A Quiet Historic Village
In 1976 with the establishment of Cape Lookout National Seashore, new
life came to Portsmouth. The 250-acre historic district of Portsmouth
is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, an honor roll that
recognizes outstanding historic buildings and districts throughout the
United States. As one walks the lanes and trails of Portsmouth´s
lost lifestyle, the buildings display a close knitted community which
was typical along the Outer Banks. The modest houses speak of a working
class community.
The People
Buildings alone cannot tell the Portsmouth story. Its history is not so
much of ships, wharves, and fishing, but of the people who once lived
there. Portsmouth is Miss Mary Dixon, a teacher in the island´s
one room schoolhouse. For 37 years Miss Dixon taught readin´, ´ritin´,
and ´rithmatic to all the island´s youth. Portsmouth is Sam
Tolson. A waterman by trade, "Uncle Sam" and his "dancin´
slippers" highlighted many a Portsmouth social event. "Uncle
Sam", it was said, could balance a glass of water on his head and
dance for hours without spilling a drop. Portsmouth is all the proud individuals
who have called this seafaring village home.
Glimpses of Portsmouth
The United States Life-Saving Service Station was a leading influence
in the community from the turn of the century until its decommission in
1937. Often the local people made up the crew members. Life was disciplined,
drills harsh, and respect in the community widespread. The first appointed
keeper was F.G. Terrel. From the watchtower, a nightly guard scanned the
seas for vessels in trouble. Patrols walked the beach. Behind the large
doors of the boathouse, oar powered surf rescue boats waited; ready to
be rushed down the ramp and out to sea at a moment´s notice. While
the Life-Saving Service played an important role for the islanders, the
church filled another niche in their lives. The "Bankers" existence
was at the mercy of the sea; their faith was placed in God for guidance.
At one time the island had two churches, a Methodist and a Primitive Baptist.
Both churches were destroyed in a 1913 storm. The Methodist church was
rebuilt the following year and it still stands today. In the center of
Portsmouth stands the town´s information and social hub, the United
States Post Office, established in 1840. As far back as memory goes, the
Post Office also served as a general store. Political discussions, fish
tales, and croquet matches were typical afternoon affairs outside this
structure. As Portsmouth declined, the Post Office remained one of the
village´s few links with the outside world. In 1956 a postage stamp
was the town´s only purchasable commodity. In 1959, the Post Office
closed its doors for the last time. Summer kitchens and dairy houses provide
views of an earlier time without generators or electricity. The kerosene
stoves of the past could leave houses sweltering in the summer. Thus cooking
was restricted to separate kitchen buildings. With no refrigerators on
the island, residents used a shaded-screened dairy house and a cooling
sea breeze to keep perishable items fresh.
Portsmouth Island Cemeteries - Compiled by Ellen Cloud
Portsmouth Island Ship Owners - Researched by Ellen Cloud
CLNS website - Portsmouth Village page
Park Brochure on Portsmouth Village - PDF format
Park Brochure on Henry Pigott, a man of Portsmouth Village - PDF format
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